This procedure provides sound
deadening as opposed to simply stopping resonance which is what products like
Dynamat accomplish. It is not
necessary to cover every surface of the door, floor and trunk. This simply adds weight to the car. The CLD tiles (or even Dynamat) will reduce
vibration and resonance. However, It is not a very good sound barrier. While the door will no longer resonate with
the tiles, you will still hear road noise. The goal is to use the sound dampening panels in strategic places
and then create a sound barrier using the MLV (mass loaded vinyl) sheet.
The following instructions has been
compiled from posts at Kappaperformance.com
The materials needed are as follows and can be
purchased from the author's web site:
45 CLD Tiles
1 roll Extruded Butyl Rope
1 67.5 ft² roll MLV
3 sheets 1/4" CCF
1 Velcro Patches, adhesive 2 sides,
1 8 oz can HH-66 Vinyl Cement
The following instructions are from
Wyatt (TecSolOnt) managed to get some CCF behind the MLV on the back wall.
This is a good idea. I'm not sure if he used scraps or something else, but
you might want to add another sheet of 1/4" CCF for that. Scraps of CCF
are very handing for stuffing behind other trim panels as well.
The MLV roll is 54" wide which works out very well for this project. Cut
two 18" pieces for the the doors and trim the length to 37". The
back wall wants a 36"X54" slice. The floor needs two 26"X54"
Two of the CCF sheets should be cut 20"X54" for the floor. Reserve
the 16"X54" piece for the doors. The third sheet goes into the
CLD Tile distribution is pretty simple: 5 each outer door skin. Cut 1 tile
into smaller pieces for the inner door skin. The floor gets 14 (remove the
stock deadener first) distributed over the resonant, unsupported areas. 4 for
the back wall and 9 for the trunk.
If you want to treat less than the full car, let me know and I'll figure out
what you need.
I'll throw in a set of the aluminum "Africa " pieces (door inner
skin access hole covers) to anyone who buys the material to treat their doors
and at least one other area of the car.
First you have to take them apart. Disconnect the negative battery terminal.
Remove the Phillips head screw on the end of the door.
Unclip this cover by moving the tab (to the left on this side)
and pulling the cover out.
Remove the Phillips head behind the cover.
Pop out this panel.
Remove the 2 bolt head screws.
The trim panel is now only held in place by plastic clips. Pull
it straight out, starting at the bottom. A panel popper will be very helpful.
When it come free lift it over the lock knob to give yourself some space and
disconnect the wire harness connectors and the door handle cable.
Peel off the vapor guard and throw it away. The adhesive is a very gooey
butyl compound. The best way to clean it up is to roll some up into a ball
and use that to poke at the adhesive still on the door. It will pull it right
Remove the bolt head screw at the top of the speaker.
Pull the top of the speaker away from the door until you hit the clip. Press
down on the clip from the top to release the speaker. Disconnect the wire
Working through the large access hole, remove the black Styrofoam block.
There are 3 Christmas tree clips holding it in place. Work them free with a
screwdriver or panel popper and work the block out of the door. You will be
putting this back after applying CLD Tiles to the exterior sheet metal. Don't
Grab hold of the stock butyl/foil vibration damper and pull it out. We'll be
replacing it with something much more effective. Pick out any butyl that
separates from the foil.
Here's what the block looks like out of the car
Now you're ready to install the materials in the door kit.
Door Kit - Part 2
Time to install the CLD Tiles to the exterior door skin. You will be
installing 3 tiles above the crash intrusion protection structure and a 4th -
cut in half along its length. Wipe down the surface with denatured alcohol to
remove dirt and any greasy residue. No matter how clean your car is, the
insides of your doors are probably dirty.
The best way to install the tiles is to peel back an inch or so of the
release paper, press the tile in place and start peeling and pressing until
you have the paper completely off. You don't want any air bubbles between the
tile and the sheet metal. Go over the tile with a roller.
Put the Styrofoam block back in
To seal or not to seal?
I always seal the access holes in the doors I work on. The advantages are
that it reduces noise transmission, makes the door more rigid and less
resonant and turns your door into something closer to a proper speaker
enclosure. The down side is that the edges of the holes aren't all in one
plane so you can't just cut a piece of aluminum stock and screw it in place unless
you are pretty good at shaping sheet metal. You can do this with a variety of
materials but you want the covers to be as rigid as possible, waterproof,
non-corroding and removable.
I made fiberglass covers for the doors. This is a good way to go but it is
very time consuming. I'm not going to show the details of how I built them
because I really don't want to encourage anybody to do this unless they have
experience working with the stuff.
John and I did his doors using a double layer of aluminum flashing you can
buy in the roofing department at Home Depot with a layer of butyl between the
two layers of aluminum. This isn't as rigid as fiberglass, but you can cut the
flashing with heavy scissors. The sandwich is flexible enough to be pushed
into the contours and the butyl layer makes it very non-resonant. This image
also shows how you should cut up and apply a CLD Tile to the interior door
Here's how to make the flashing "sandwich". Cut your 2
matching pieces of flashing for each hole. Partially cover one side with
Extruded Butyl Rope. Press the 2 sides together with the butyl at the center.
Put the sandwich on some aluminum foil and put it in a 250°F oven for 30
minutes. Take it out and go over it with a roller. This flattens the butyl
and spreads it over the entire surface.
Whatever you make the covers out of, run a bead of Exruded Butyl Rope around
the mounting surface before pressing them in place. This will improve the
seal and will add more vibration damping to the door. Hold in place with self
tapping screws or a fastener of your choice. Remember that doors are exposed
to water. If you drill pilot holes for your fasteners, priming and painting
them is a good idea. I use a good coating of Loctite too.
Next up - applying the mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam.
Door Kit - Part 3
Now we're ready to fit the mass loaded vinyl (MLV) to the interior door skin.
The goal is to cover as much of the door as we can and still get the trim
panel back on. Any holes we make in the MLV to fit wires and for the door open
cable to pass through should be as small as possible. If we make a mistake,
it can be repaired using HH-66 Vinyl Cement.
First hang the MLV using Velcro patches. The patches are large enough and
strong enough that you should cut them in half for easier positioning. Peel
the release film off of one side of the Velcro and press it onto the door
along the top edge where you will be mounting the MLV. Repeat so that you
have two mounting points. Peel the release film off of the 2 Velcro pieces
mounted to the door. Align the MLV and press into place. To assure that the
Velcro adhesive is firmly affixed, Peel the MLV off the door, separating the
hook and loop sides of the Velcro. Press down the sides mounted to the door
and the sides mounted on the MLV.
This shows the positions of the Velcro patches after the door is complete. At
this point just put 2 along the top and the one at the top right doesn't need
to be a whole strip.
Trim the MLV to allow clearance for the clips.
Pull the egg crate looking plastic piece off - it's just hot glued in place.
Throw it away.
Take note of the bracket and screw slots.
Here you can see the cutout for the bracket and the hole I'll have to come
back and fix.
Remove the MLV from the door and lay it inside the trim panel for fine
tuning. There's a lot of information in this photo.
1) I cut the MLV to allow the bracket in the last photo to just fit through.
I then covered the hole with a scrap of 1/4" CCF using HH-66 Vinyl
Cement. This way, when you screw the trim panel back down you will still have
a tight seal and the CCF will eliminate any possibility of rattling.
2) This was a mistake I made and repaired with a scrap of MLV using HH-66.
When I had the MLV mounted to the door I cut the MLV to match the hole behind
the handle. Not necessary - plenty of clearance without cutting the MLV.
HH-66 creates a bond that is stronger than the vinyl itself. No harm no foul.
3) The MLV overlaps the black styrofoam inside the trim panel. This will make
the trim panel impossible to get back on. You'll need to cut the styrofoam
down 1/8". I used a sanding drum on a Dremel - zip zip, done.
Finally, notice the little extension pieces of MLV on the left side and the
bottom. Again. MLV scraps and HH-66. May as well fill that panel as much as
possible. Also notice the amount of clearance around the clips and alignment
Getting ready to wrap this up. Here you can see the error I made (and
repaired) and the extra holes for the lock knob, handle cable, etc.
Make sure that the hole you cut for the lock knob rob has enough clearance
for both locked and unlocked positions. I cut the MLV so that it exactly fit
the speaker opening so that the speaker goes back on top of the MLV. I've
also added 1/4" CCF to the surface of the MLV using HH-66. You want to
add as much as will fit.
Reassemble door. Done.
First things first. If you are going to do the Floor Kit you really ought to
do the back wall kit too and at the same time. You need to remove the back
wall to do the floor and the two areas sort of run together.
Remove the negative battery terminal.
Slide the seat forward and move the seat back forward to give yourself some
space. Remove the nuts holding the seat down. Unscrew the black plastic carpet
hold down. It has an Allen wrench fitting but you can unscrew it by hand.
Slide the seat back and remove the front nuts. Tip the seat back
and disconnect the wire harness connector(s). Lift the seat out of the car.
Remove the other seat. Pop the door sills off.
Remove the back wall side trim pieces. Remove the speaker connector.
Pop of the center console/hump trim. Pop off the back wall trim.
Remove the dead pedal and remove the carpet from both sides. You should be
looking at this.
Next - to scrape or not …
Floor Kit - Part 2
Here we are. Notice the box bolted to the passenger side floor. Remove the
nuts that hold it down and remember its orientation. We're going to cut the
CCF and MLV so that it still makes contact with the floor when we put it back.
This where you decide which Floor Kit you will be buying based
on whether or not you want to scrape out the factory vibration damping on the
floor. It looks OK in this picture but it had lifted up from the floor in a
few places and had never been bonded to the floor in others. Air space
between a vibration damper and the substrate renders the vibration damper
I was pretty disappointed to run into this stuff in this car. It's asphalt
with some sort of metallic/metalized coating on top. Right next to it there
is a very high quality material used on the center hump. For whatever reason
they cheaped out big time on the floor. I won't go into all of the reasons
why asphalt is a very poor vibration damper and why it shouldn't be
considered a permanent material for use in motor vehicles.
The fact is, if yours is in reasonable shape, there will only be a small
improvement in noise reduction if you take it out. We're going to go over
this surface with CCF and MLV anyway and that will account for most of the
noise attenuation. Whether you leave it or take it out is going to be more a
function of the kind of person you are. If trading 2 hours of your life seems
absolutely worth it to know that you have done everything possible or if you
want to know that the vibration damper on the floor won't be causing any
problems in 20 years, take it out. You know who you are If
you are going to leave it in there, go ahead and skip to the next section.
Now that the slackers are gone we can get down to business The
good news for those of you who will be removing the asphalt is that asphalt
melts at 180°F. That's bad for durability but means you can scrape most of it
out with a heat gun and a putty knife. Being careful not cut into the e-coat,
warm an edge of the asphalt, slip the putty knife under it and work your way
Once you've gotten everything up you can by heating and scraping, use a shop
vac to get up all of the brown grit you couldn't pick up by hand.
Now it's time to add some mineral spirits. You'll also need some
rags or paper towels. Pour an ounce or so of mineral spirits onto an area
with residue remaining. Spread it out with your putty knife and let it set
for a minute or so. Use the putty knife to gently scrape the residue away.
Use a rag to wipe up the glop. When you're done, Put some mineral spirits on
a rag and wipe the surface down. Finish up with a denatured alcohol wipe down
to get rid of any oily residue. Now you have a nice clean floor. You get
points for dedication. If you want points for being a hard-ass, use an
acetylene torch like Bobby did on his side.
Next - applying CLD Tiles to the floor.
Floor Kit - part 3 We start installing stuff!
If you left the stock vibration damper in place, your best bet is to apply
the 6 CLD Tiles in your kit to the untreated portions of the floor. There
isn't much to be gained by applying them on top of the existing material.
If you took your floor down to the e-coat, something like this is the way to
go. The brown stuff you see isn't rust. It's asphalt dust that stuck to the
joint caulk because we didn't have a shop vac to suck it up. Won't hurt
Everybody's the same from here on out. Lay one of the CCF sheets on the floor
and trim it to just cover the horizontal surface. Here you can see the
cut-out for the block that bolts to the floor.
Lay the MLV on the floor. You want it to run up the door sill a little
bit, up the firewall/foot well as far as it will reach and as far up the
center hump as it will reach. Press down on the MLV above the threaded studs
and they will break through. Make sure to get them all. You will have to cut
slits to get around the corners. Do it in a way that the resulting flaps
You could put everything back together
now, but since we've already agreed that you will do the floor and the back
wall at the same time, I'll move on to the back wall next.
The following pictures are from JohnyMac and can be found on the Kappa performance
Place the CLD tiles on the back wall as shown in the following pictures:
Trim the MLV Material to fit the rear wall. You will need to remove all of the
electrical components off the rear wall so you can install the MLV Material.
After the MLV Material is attached to the rear
wall, Re attach and re-anchor all of the electrical components and wires as
Re-install the Monsoon system if applicable.
Remove the XM radio unit on the floor and
install MLV material under the XM radio base.
Use enough material to fold down over the center hump.
The following pictures are from Bryan's
install as documented by DeepBlueGXP in the kappaperformance forum:
Remove the trunk carpeting and place CLD Tiles
in trunk as show
Trim foam material to lie on trunk floor and
"alter" as shown below..
Trim MLV material to fit on trunk floor and on
top of the "alter". When done,
reinstall the carpeting material.